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All classic wine grapes ( Vitis
vinifera L.) have their roots somewhere in Europe and
western Asia. However, the exact origin of Zinfandel, one of the most
important red wine cultivars of California, has been a mystery to
Americans ever since its arrival to the United States in the early
1820s.
The importance of Zinfandel in the US wine
industry is evident, as it is considered to be one of America's most
important red wine grapes. California is the leading wine producing
state in America; it accounts for approximately 90% of all US wine
production. In such a developed wine industry, Zinfandel enjoys an
almost a cult-like following and accounts for roughly twelve percent of
the wine sold in the US each year. In California alone, this variety is
planted by more than 300 producers over 50,000 acres. The Association
of Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP) is dedicated to the
promotion of Zinfandel and education of the public about this
economically important variety. Founded in 1991, ZAP numbers about 6500
advocates and over 310 producers of Zinfandel. Over the course of the
past few decades, Zinfandel received worldwide recognition with new
plantings in Australia, South Africa, New Zealand, France, Italy and
even Chile.
Considering the importance and popularity of
Zinfandel, it is no wonder that the exact "Old world" origin of this
variety has been the subject of numerous debates. Professor Charles
Sullivan, a historian who has dedicated years of his work to
researching California viticultural practices, once referred to
Zinfandel: "It is the spirit of American pioneers captured in the
bottle for all times." Many American wine-lovers identify with the
hardships of this wine, on its road to success and popularity. It is
unquestionable that Americans have recognized the value of Zinfandel
and brought it to the attention of the rest of the world. However,
since none of the Vitis vinifera L. varieties
are native to the Americas, Zinfandel's European origins continued to
be as mysterious and intriguing as the red liquid that enchanted the
world.
In the early 1990s, the development of
sophisticated genetic fingerprinting techniques and their application
towards the resolution of "grape mysteries" (the parentage of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Chardonnay) in the laboratory of Professor
Carole Meredith at UC Davis marked the beginning of the end of the
Zinfandel mystery. In this very laboratory, DNA profiling was used to
confirm that Primitivo di Gioia, a grape with a long tradition in the
Puglia region, is a genetically identical synonym of the famous
American grape. Although the finding that Zinfandel and Primitivo are
one and the same variety had narrowed down the search for the original
home of Zinfandel to the Mediterranean basin, its exact origins were
still debatable. The documented evidence of Primitivo's presence in
Italy extends back only to the mid-1700's, and the geographic proximity
of Croatia, as well as viticultural conditions resembling those of
Puglia, pointed to this country as its possible original home.
The
idea that Zinfandel originates from coastal Dalmatia has been drifting
in scientific circles for at least 20 years. The motivating force
behind this claim in the US and the main advocate of 'Croatian
Zinfandel' was Mike Grgich, a renowned Californian winemaker and
enthusiast of Croatian descent. At the time when I joined the Meredith
team as a research assistant in 1997, Professor Meredith informed me
about her plans to visit Croatia and start collaboration with the
scientists from the University of Zagreb. Until then, no one had the
means or the necessary motivation to begin the search in Croatia, a
country that has been ravaged by war from 1990-1995. She asked me to be
her companion and translator. In May of 1998, with the help of Mike
Grgich and scientists from the University of Zagreb, we ventured off
into Dalmatian vineyards. What followed after our initial meeting and
everything that happened between the spring of 1998 and the fall of
2002, along with the final discovery of the Croatian Zinfandel
counterpart - Crljenak kaštelanski, is scientifically
documented in my Ph.D. dissertation. However, the dissertation is
missing all the fun parts, the ups and downs of the search all the way
to the funny details of the 1998 'search of the territory'.
The aim of
the book "Zinfandel: A Croatian-American Wine Story" is to provide a
picturesque and detailed portrayal of the search for original Zinfandel
from an insider perspective. This book is a detective tale and a travel
log written for all Zinfandel lovers interested in reading about my
first hand experience on the 'Zinfandel trail' and the final discovery
of its Croatian match. It is also intended for all wine lovers and
future visitors to Croatia who will, among the four chapters, surely
find useful information about viticultural tradition, wine production
and history of Croatia – a small country with more than a
thousand islands and five million smiles. I hope you'll enjoy reading
my story about a grape's journey through its Croatian-American past!
© Jasenka
Piljac Žegarac
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